SkyVue Grill's Baby Butter burger is perfectly sized and the broccoli florets are addictive.
SkyVue Grill doesn't mess around with margarine. This burger dive is all about the butter. Owner Rob Good cooks his appropriately named 4-ounce Butter Burger ($5) and his 2-ounce Baby Butter ($2.50) in the delicious fat. He also douses his chicken and veggie wings in a variety of sauces--hot buffalo, Belizean, Thai, BBQ--which all share the same backbone: Butter.
Located at 4822 W. Fairview Ave., SkyVue Grill is a destination burger stop. Situated on a one-way stretch of Fairview near Orchard Road that is difficult to access, SkyVue Grill has traffic flow working against it. Once you make it there, you'll be glad you put in the extra effort.
The building originally housed an Arctic Circle in the late 1950s and later morphed into Rockies Drive-in, and that dated drive-in vibe still permeates: The rectangular space features throwback black-and-white checkered tiles along with a handful of high-top tables and splashes of burgundy paint.
On a recent Friday night, we were the only customers in the tiny, quiet restaurant, and the dull hum of fluorescent lights made me stare longingly at the outside patio.
Once baskets filled with fried fare began filtering out of the kitchen, I forgot all about ambience. The first plate to hit the table was a half-order of veggie wings ($3 half-pound, $5 pound), aka fried broccoli. The florets were lightly steamed and breaded, then flash-fried and tossed in sauce—we chose sweet Thai. The resulting snack was addictive and even more decadent after a dunk in ranch.
A half-order of chicken wings ($4 half-pound, $7 pound) came out next, coated in a pungent hot buffalo sauce. The sauce had ample heat and a heavy vinegar tang that was soothed by a plunge in the accompanying side of bleu cheese. The wings weren't quite as impressive as the butter burger, though.
Sandwiched in a fluffy, flour-dusted bun from Gaston's Bakery, Good's slim-but-flavor-packed Double R Ranch patty comes topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, special sauce and crisp homemade pickles. After devouring the wings, the Baby Butter was the ideal size: larger than a slider but not so big that you get burger fatigue halfway through. The smaller burger also allows you to save plenty of room for SkyVue's perfectly thin, super crunchy french fries and house-made soft serve ice cream. Or, if you're feeling particularly indulgent, a milkshake swirled with crunchy bits of real bacon.