So much to love about The Lift. Let's start with the $3 fish taco. When owner Jason Kovac, a surfer/skateboarder from Santa Monica, Calif., decided to serve the Pacific Coast staple at his popular bar and grill, he started with the essentials: good fish and shredded cabbage wrapped in a corn tortilla drizzled with white sauce.
On Holy Oly Tuesdays, when cans of Olympia beer cost 50 cents and fish tacos go for $2, we love The Lift all the more. The State Street pub sells so much Oly that about a year ago, Olympia's vice president flew from San Antonio, to shake Kovac's hand and meet the man whose bar sells more cans of the iconic, 77-year-old lager than any other establishment in the United States.
The delectable taco starts with beer-battered cod placed atop corn tortillas that are lightly grilled to enhance their natural sweetness. Chopped cabbage provides a crunchy contrast to the warm, tender fish, and a refreshing salsa of pineapple and chopped red onion adds tangy sweetness. The dish's requisite white sauce, which is drizzled over the whole affair, is seasoned with cilantro and a squeeze of fresh lime. It's a simple harmony of tastes and textures.
A fish taco, a can of Oly and thou. Pure poetry.