Angell's Bar & Grill 

I am an American. I live in an eight-bedroom, 15-5/8th-bathroom home that is being renovated because it's too small. Weekend trips with the family to McCall require the logistics of a shuttle launch. I have diabetes, heartburn, heart disease, gout, sleep apnea, high everything and a rash that has been present in my groin for 12 years. Swallowing and road rage are my only forms of exercise. I'm into cancer prevention, and prefer that all my food be soaked in butter, so that I may die suddenly of a massive heart attack, long before the consumptive ravages of malignancy overtake my body. I love to eat at Angell's.

There is a restaurant review from 1989 framed in the entryway, and it describes dark green upholstery, oak floors and brass accents. Angell's unchanged interior is one of the only examples of conservation in Idaho that I support. Enormous lacquered sea creatures hanging throughout the restaurant outnumber in variety, the type of fish found on the menu. All those potentially mercury-laden fish are dangerous, and belong on a wall (or maybe in a zoo) but not in my stomach. Angell's has a number of booths and semi-private dining rooms that I prefer to use for lobbying and bribing—in that order of course, unless I'm dealing with you know whom.

I strongly support our cattle industry, and eat beef whenever I come to Angell's. My favorite meal is their Mesquite ribeye. The dinner comes with a generous salad, topped with a surprisingly light, creamy Italian house dressing and blue cheese crumbles. A fine wait staff keeps the table flush with fresh bread and stiff drinks from the full bar. The ribeye is center cut, comes with your choice of starch, and is topped with ... what else, but onion rings. Folks, I'm talking about some of the best steaks outside of—now bow your head—the Pioneer in Ketchum. On a recent visit, my companion ordered some sort of chicken dish that she liked, but who gives a damn? If you want to eat chicken, move to Kentucky.

I'm wary of change and see no reason why Angell's shouldn't stay in business another 25 years doing the same thing. The staff is attentive, the bread is hot, the salads are cold and the steaks are tender. Eat at Angell's, because if you're anything like me—and I bet you are—you'll love it too.

—Waj Nasser backed his H2 into his boat, which knocked his two snowmobiles into the pool.

Angell's Bar & Grill, 999 W. Main St., 342-4900. Tue.-Fri.: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m.; Mon.-Sat.: 5-10 p.m., Sun.: 5-9 p.m.

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