Going Gose 

Light on the hops, sour, salty

German Gose style is a brew light on hops, with a characteristic sourness, an herbal quality and a light salinity. In an age where heavy hop bitterness is all the rage, that Gose style is a refreshing change of pace. Perfect for warm weather guzzling, here are three that work equally well now.

Anderson Valley Blood Orange Gose, $1.30-$2.30

A pale saffron in color with an explosive head that collapses quickly, Anderson Valley's ripe orange aromas dominate the nose along with touches of dusty mineral. It's the tartest of the three with a sour tang balanced by a sweet cereal grain quality something like Trix (but not for kids). A touch of coriander comes through on the finish.

Elysian Hawaiian Sunburn Pineapple Habanero Sour, $4.50-$5.50

Bottled in a 22-ounce bomber, it's the color of golden beet juice, with a porous, paper-white head and opens with a bit of pineapple on the nose along with a cotton candy sweetness. On the palate, there's a nice ripe lime component along with a bit of bell pepper. A suggestion of heat at the back end builds in intensity with each sip.

Sierra Nevada Otra Vez Gose-Style Ale, $1.50-$1.80

A hazy, straw colored pour topped by an egg white froth, this Gose is brewed with prickly pear cactus and grapefruit. The nose here is an intriguing mix of tart citrus, berry, mineral, brine and a hint of something like tequila. It's light bodied and refreshing, and palate is filled with tart lime and ripe melon with a pinch of salt. This is quite a sessionable brew.

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