Goldy's Corner 

Half of everything, but not quite a destination

Goldy's Corner puts the "meh" in menu.

Leila Ramella Rader

Goldy's Corner puts the "meh" in menu.

Goldy's Corner, an annex to the popular breakfast bistro, would seem to have everything going for it.

First off, it's located at the corner of Capitol Boulevard and Main Street and is open from 6:30 a.m.-3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. The building's large windows are perfect for people watching any time of day, and the building is well-situated to catch the lunch crowd or the bar crowd in dire need of a late-night snack. The warm color scheme, comfortable booths and old-timey jazz bumping on the stereo combine to make it almost insufferably pleasant. And the kitchen at Goldy's Breakfast Bistro, next door, pumps out baked goods and food items for the corner cafe, backed by a solid reputation.

The problem is that Goldy's Corner also has a laundry list of inconsistencies.

The music is only on about half the time. One wall is lined with large, bright oil paintings, then ruined by a large attention-grabbing TV. And most strangely, instead of seating, the section of the cafe closest to the register is full of shelves full of sundries--everything from cough drops to aprons. Though it makes sense to sell random items drunks may need, it's a stake through the heart of atmosphere.

Even the menu is half-baked. Much of the food is pre-made in Goldy's kitchen and reheated at Goldy's Corner, which is fine for cinnamon rolls but not as good for quiche as the day wears on. A wedge of asparagus and Gruyere quiche was a bit off in the egg department. Much better was a chicken artichoke crepe, doused in hollandaise prepared by the barista. Its only flaw was that the crepe was snack-sized. Were a heartier version available, the corner could make it a signature dish. Several sweets also satisfied, most notably a tangy lemon bar with a soft graham cracker crust.

During dinner hours, Goldy's Corner also offers some breakfast specials from Goldy's and a small list of burgers and sandwiches that are nothing to write home about.

The grilled turkey sandwich featured thin-sliced turkey, but the flavor of the turkey and the cranberry relish were overpowered by the saltiness of the bacon. The sandwich didn't live up to its potential.

Ultimately Goldy's Corner is half the breakfast joint of Goldy's, half the coffee shop of any other downtown coffee shop and half the sundry outlet of a gas station market, making it a bit of a failure as a destination.

But if you're on the waiting list for a table at Goldy's or stumbling out of a Sixth Street meat market afraid to get hit by a taxi crossing the street to go to Pita Pit, there's Goldy's Corner.

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