In the Groover With Gruner 

Some 20 years back, Austria's Gruner Veltliner (aka GrooVee) was the hot new thing. Every sommelier worth his or her certification embraced GrooVee with unbridled enthusiasm. But fads fade, and for a time, Gruner fell out of favor. I'm happy to say it's making a comeback, though locally, it's still just a blip on the radar. Most of what's available is entry-level, often value packed in liter bottles. Still, they're crisp, refreshing, food-friendly wines that are just the thing for summer. Here are the panel's top three picks:

Broadbent Gruner Veltliner, $11.99

This wine opens with lively stone fruit, melon and tangerine aromas backed by a bit of basil and honeyed clover. A fruit-forward wine with light acidity, the flavors are a mix of Mandarin orange, ripe lime and creamy peach. The soft finish has a touch of citrus zest and a lingering minerality.

2017 Hugl Weine Gruner Veltliner, $14.99

Snappy lime and peach aromas lead off this wine, along with a hint of spice and mineral. The flavors are marked by bright lime, citrus zest and crisp acidity. This is a very fresh and fruity wine, the most refreshing of the three, which is not surprising given its more recent vintage.

2015 Ott Gruner Veltliner Am Berg, $14.99

An intriguing whiff of toasted coconut colors this wine's subtle melon and citrus aromas. A well-structured, impeccably balanced wine, it takes time in the glass to open up, revealing a bright core of peach, green apple and citrus fruit. It turns soft and creamy on the finish with lovely saline touches of mineral. It's the most complex of the three.

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