Java 

On one plate...

I've had coffee at Java a dozen times before-they're justifiably proud of their coffee/chocolate concoction, the Bowl of Soul-but I'd never had their food. I didn't even realize they served much beyond the usual coffee shop muffin and cookie assortment. I found out that Java has a decent array of breakfast and lunch choices, so a friend and I went to Java for lunch.

Upon entering Java, we were met by a pleasant interior-with tall windows framed by heavy drapes and a dramatically high ceiling running half of the long, narrow room, the space is grander than many coffee emporiums. (The pervasive Warhol prints were somehow jarring, but outside of 19th century Vienna, "hip" usually trumps "elegant" in a coffeehouse.) There were ample tables for diners, as well as a comfortable couch/coffee table seating area for more casual coffee drinkers. Java was jumping when we went and a fair number of patrons had laptops out.

Reading the menu board at the counter, I balked at the prices, which were like those at a hotel restaurant-as if when Java came down from Sun Valley it brought Sun Valley prices along with that delicious coffee and hip décor. I decided on the club sandwich and one of Java's impossibly huge chocolate chip cookies; my friend ordered the tortilla soup. We sat at one of many little bistro tables and our food was delivered shortly.

My turkey club sandwich was very good-the turkey plentiful on delicious sourdough bread. The cheese had a bite to it and was thick enough to taste without being so thick it overpowered everything else, while the mayo and honey mustard saved the sandwich from the common sandwich sin of blandness. A generous portion of red, white and blue corn chips, nice and thick, accompanied my turkey club-not my favorite lunch side dish, but my friend liked them, so between the two of us, we ate them all. His soup had a spicy kick of heat as well as good flavor and was garnished appetizingly with shredded cheese, green onion and those same tortilla chips.

The cookie was big enough to share-perhaps four inches in circumference and nearly two inches thick. Packed with chips and surprisingly not doughy, it was a tasty finish to the meal.

-Sara Beitia feels that cookies are "anytime foods."

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