Saint Lawrence Gridiron 

The patron saint of juicy slabs of meat

Appropriately named Saint Lawrence Gridiron employee Angus Center hams it up with some pork belly.

Laurie Pearman

Appropriately named Saint Lawrence Gridiron employee Angus Center hams it up with some pork belly.

In the world at large, Saint Lawrence is the patron saint of librarians, archivists, cooks and deacons. In Boise, he's the patron saint of anyone looking for a juicy slab of meat.

Saint Lawrence Gridiron, the bright orange food truck that first appeared in Boise in April, made a name for itself as one of the valley's leading dealers in cow and pig, sliced and grilled to perfection--just like Saint Lawrence himself, who made his way into sainthood after his execution by barbecue.

Though the menu rotates, one of the truck's flagship dishes is its burnt-ends poutine ($5.50)--a bed of handcut fries doused in rich gravy and bits of brisket, garnished with gorgonzola. It's the best kind of gutbomb, with enough starch and fat to kill the hangovers of 10 men, but with a palette of rich flavors rarely seen outside of a traditional holiday meal.

Another staple is the Boise cheesesteak ($7), a giant hoagie bun loaded with brisket, a cheddar ale sauce, pickled peppers and onions. A single bite of that sandwich leads to an obvious inference that Boise has more class than Philly.

For the slightly more adventurous, there are the pork belly fries ($5.50), thick rectangles of tender, greasy pig seared to a light crisp on the outside and dripping with artery-clogging goodness on the interior. They're served on a pool of balsamic glaze with a lightly spicy mustard aioli on the side, and several puffy chicharrones. The fried belly fingers are tender and rich, with a slightly jelly-like texture and a warm satisfying finish.

A current rotating item, the Asian pork steamed buns ($5 for 2), is slightly disappointing: the white bao dough is used to make a small tortilla topped with pulled pork and jicama. Call me old-fashioned, but I like my hum bao as balls, not tacos.

The one thing you won't find much of it at Saint Lawrence Gridiron is veggies. There's a rotating selection of savory salads--such as the tasty kale salad ($4.50) with carmelized shallots, mushrooms and shaved romano--but it's largely a meat-and-potatoes menu, with veggies serving a mostly decorative function. The result is that the comfort food Saint Lawrence Gridiron dispenses is enjoyed most comfortably with the top button of your pants undone and a good heart surgeon on speed dial.

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